Rigging And Sails. Part 4
A schooner's sails (see Fig. 4), with due allowance for the difference in shape, will be much the same as those described, although always fitted with a hoisting gaff. There are no brails, but possibly lazy jacks instead. As with the hull construction and the making of small parts there are various hints and kinks in rigging that will help the model maker to save time and obtain a more perfect job. For example, in rigging the deadeyes and lanyards, the work can be speeded up through the use of the simple jig or rigging block shown in Fig. 5. It consists simply of a piece of fiber or wood supplied with two holes the size of the deadeyes to be used and a connecting slot. The two deadeyes to be rigged are placed in the holes, which are spaced the proper distance apart (generally from three to four times their diameter) and the lanyard is rigged as shown.
When completed, the deadeyes can be removed from the jig simply by pushing them out. A discarded piano stool of the revolving type or a home-made turntable will be a useful aid when rigging a model. Simply place the model, supported in its temporary or permanent stand, on the turntable or stool. It then can be turned to any position quickly and easily. As already suggested, a crochet needle and a pair of tweezers will make the handling of the small fittings and rigging simpler. To these rigging tools you should add a sharp pair of medium size scissors, a pair of nail scissors, a bottle of quick drying cement, a sewing machine if one is available, and a good supply of needles and thread, both black and white. Since the rig of most ships is their characteristic feature, and since clean-cut, seamanlike rigging is always the distinguishing mark of a fine model, it is imperative that the rigging of any model be taut.
Some model makers obtain this trim effect by using copper wire wherever possible. However, it should not be done to excess. Linen thread and fishline of the proper size, when tightly rigged, is hard to beat as far as realism is concerned. If it is necessary to stiffen a cord, rub some beeswax over it and pass it momentarily over a flame. One of the greatest problems that face the amateur who is about to rig his first model is what to use for the various lines, shrouds, and stays. Most ship modelers are guided by the following general classification: Shrouds, stays, and topping lifts, thread fishline; halyards and sheets, linen cord; and downhauls and light lines, sewing thread. On models of later sailing ships, the standing rigging should be black (to represent coaltarred surfaces) and the running rigging should be manila-colored (tan).