The Hull. Part 1
With a little skill and patience, even the rankest amateur can produce in miniature a
magnificent Spanish galleon. The model depicted (Figs. 6 and 12) is not really intended to
be any particular galleon, but it is a good sketch model of this type of ship as it
actually existed. Every department store is flooded with so-called galleon models; they
are not models at all, but merely decorations with a ship-model motif, and bear but little
resemblance to any real ship. Here, however, is a model designed from contemporary plans
and other reliable data. It is somewhat simplified and every detail is not embodied, but
in general line and in such detail as appears, it is a good replica, well proportioned and
sufficiently ornate.
The Hull
The center piece A (Figs. 1 and 2), is cut from a piece of 1/4-in.
three-ply (or solid) wood 8 by 25 in. Use a full-size view made by transferring the
outline to the board by first drawing 1-in. squares to serve as guide lines. The shape of
this piece represents the outside profile of the hull, as seen in Fig. 2, except along the
top, where the line has been made heavier to enable you to follow the shape more easily.
The division between the rudder and the stern is merely a V-cut on either side. Round the
edges of the centerboard a trifle and cut out the scrolls in the bow. Then mark the
construction lines II to VII on both sides. For the body of the hull B, Fig. 2, white pine
is best. It can be obtained 13/8 in. thick (planed). Glue together, in pairs, four pieces
3 1/2 in. wide and 18 in. long. Mark the construction lines all around each piece (Figs. 1
and 2). On the deck (upper side) mark the deck outline from part A and cut away to this.
Then cut the profiles at the bow and stern as shown in detail in Fig. 2 (squares measure 1
in.).
Make cardboard templates to correspond to the six section lines in the body plan given in Fig. 1. These, of course, should be enlarged to full size through the use of the squares. Cut away the sides of the hull pieces B until they fit the templates at the six construction lines II to VII. Hold the two pieces together and see that they match. If you deviate from the actual section lines, it is of no particular importance; the main thing is to see that pieces B are approximately alike. Glue and lightly nail pieces B to the center piece, so that the construction lines on all three correspond. To lighten the model it is desirable, but not at all necessary, to scoop out a lot of the inside wood, leaving at least 3/8 in. at the edges. Bore the nine 3/16-in. holes for the cannon about 1/2 in. below the edge, so that the guns will point slightly up, and forward and aft at the ends. Obtain, if possible, a piece of 1/16-in. three-ply wood (airplane or waterproof stock), which can be had from some veneer dealers in 2-ft. square pieces. Otherwise use heavy cardboard, several thicknesses of thin cardboard glued together, or, better still, glue together five thicknesses of thin wood veneer with casein (water-proof) glue.
Take a piece 5 1/2 in. wide and 18 in. long and cut it approximately to the shape of the
main deck D, Fig. 1. This, as well as two of the other decks, will need a slot at the ends
to fit around the center piece, which makes the whole rigid. Glue and nail the main deck
in place (after noting the suggestions given later on in regard to fastening the bitts),
and trim the edges to agree with the side pieces. Cut two bulwarks from the same material
to the shape shown at C, Fig. 1, and in them cut the 1/4 in. square gun ports and the 1/4
in. round hawse hole. Bevel the forward edge so that it fits snugly against the center
piece. Leave 1/4 in. extra length at the after end, to be trimmed when in position. Steam
the forward 6 in. of these pieces (unless cardboard is used) and glue and nail them to the
hull, overlapping it 1/4 in. (see Fig. 4). A rough block of scrap wood glued in the stern
(Fig. 2) is helpful for nailing into. Note how this bulwark follows the "tumble home" or
inward slope the hull started.
On the deck erect the bulkheads K and L (Fig. 2) of 1/4. in. plywood. K stands 11/4 in. high and slants forward a trifle; L is 13/8-in. high and leans aft. Cut both to fit between the bulwarks and bevel to meet the slope to the deck. Cut the decks E and F (Fig. 1) from the 1/16-in. plywood and glue on so as to overlap the sides about 1/8 in. If the tops of the bulkheads are rounded to about 1/8 in. higher in the center than at the ends, that will give the decks a slope or camber which is realistic and looks well. Erect bulkhead M, deck G, bulkhead N, and deck H, in exactly the same manner. The overlays which cover the exposed faces of the bulkheads are of very thin wood (veneer), or cardboard painted to look like it. Doors and windows are cut in these. Door paneling is painted on, and the windows are filled with celluloid or silver paper.